Remember that Tokyo isn’t really one city but several cities that have grown together and each has its highstreet/downtown area. Shinjuku, Ginza, Shibuya, Shinagawa etc are all ‘centres’.
Many of the big visitor destinations are on the Yamanote line, so if you stay close to one of its stations you will find it very easy to get around.
The easiest way to pay and use public transport is to get a Suica card on your iPhone (equivalent of Oyster card). Do this by going to Apple Wallet, clicking the + sign and then selecting ‘Travel Card’. Search for ‘Suica’ and you can create a card and top it up. Then simply tap your iphone at the gates (not that some gates appear open but will rapidly close in front of you if you walk through without tapping in!) You can also use your Suica card to pay for things at convenience stores such as 7/11 and Family Mart.
Japan’s metro system closes quite early and there is no overnight service. Taxis/Ubers are comparatively expensive to public transport, but only because the trains are so cheap!
Ginza is Tokyo’s prime shopping district and is where you’ll find the majority of luxury boutiques and brands. There’s also lots of hotels and restaurants in this area but to be honest, it’s not somewhere I’d choose to stay necessarily.
Shibuya is famous for its crossing and attracts lots of visitors. It’s a decent place to be and you can walk to a quieter/more local cute neighbourhood shopping district of Daikanyama as well as the Meiji Jingu (shrine).
Shinjuku is the gay capital of Tokyo and where you’ll find the majority of gay bars and nightlife. It also has good shopping and restaurants. This would be my first choice of location, to be honest.
Things to see and do
Meiji Jingu – beautiful wooded shrine near Shibuya
Daikanyama – low rise boutiques near Shibuya, very cute and local
Un Rigeur ear cleaning – get your ears cleaned in Shinjuku! A nice young Japanese man runs this clinic and uses a camera so you can see all the wax being removed in real time. You might be surprised how much you have!
Tsukiji fish market – popular tourist destination with food and restaurants but I’ve never been! Note that the main tuna auction has now moved to Toyosu fish market, which is further away. To view the auction you need to book really far in advance.
Sengakuji Shrine (Takanawa) – this is a small shrine dedicated to the 47 Samurai who commited seppuku (a gruesome suicide ritual) after they fell out with with a local lord. I like this shrine because to enter the main graveyard you have to buy incense sticks to place at each of the 47 graves. It feels more interactive than simply seeing and taking photos of something. And it’s cheap!
Shinkansen – ok it’s not a ‘thing to do’ so much as get somewhere, but if you do take one (and I recommend it!) then you can buy yourself an ‘Ekiben’ bento box from one of the many shops on the platform. These are effectively lunch boxes made to be eaten on board.
Tokyo doesn’t have much of a sky line – the two notable buildings are Tokyo Tower and the SkyTree. The best view of Tokyo is from Roppongi Hills Observatory which is 2,400 yen. For a free alternative, go to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office in Shinjuku – you might have to queue a short while.
Food
You’ll find amazing food wherever you go in Japan, it’s hard to go wrong, but here are some pointers to start.
Chains:
Kura Sushi is a cheap, easy conveyor belt sushi you’ll find all over Japan
Sushizanmai is Reiya’s favourite conveyor belt sushi train (I haven’t been yet)
Ichiran is a chain of late-night ramen shops. They don’t really have group tables – it’s more seating for solo diners
Afuri Ramen is another ramen chain
Restaurants:
Mikoresushi (Shinjuku) is a cute small sushi shop with less than 50 covers where you can watch them make your sushi. Cute, neighbourhood vibe.
Tempura Kondo (Ginza) is recommended to me by my friend John as the best tempura ever. I haven’t been yet.
Kazuto Inakana Utsuwa (Shinjuku) is Kazuto from The Boyfriend’s restaurant. I haven’t been yet but would like to, but you need to book in advance. It’s a bit pricier and features dishes made from rice grown by his family in the country. Book via Instagram.
Shopping
Take your passport when shopping for VAT refunds. Most places process it in-store
Uniqlo (obviously)
It’s so much cheaper in Japan and even better with the tax free refund. The ‘flagship’ is in Ginza but it felt very narrow and cramped. I much preferred the Uniqlo Shinjuku Hoboten. ‘Gu’ is Uniqlo’s cheaper, more trend-led brand that is often located in the same building.
Muji
Same thing – everything is much cheaper than in London and there’s a wider range of clothes as well.
Beams
A Japanese brand that sells both its own brand and others. Normally quite small stores but each one often has a different selection. I love Beams and visit one every time I go.
Don Quijote (Donki)
These crazy, multi-story discount stores are sensory overload. You can buy literally everything here from sex toys to bags and suitcases to skincare and food. There’s no rhyme or reason to their layouts, it’s all a bit bonkers.
OAO shoes – local shoe brand. Dunno why I have this here but clearly was recommended to me!
Onsen
Nothing better than getting naked with other Japanese men! The busiest times are after work/in the evenings. It’s a nice way to relax after a long day on your feet. Make sure you fully clean yourself using the sit-down showers before you enter the water, and don’t drop your flannel in the water either!
Ofuro no Oomase in Oimaichi is a smaller onsen at the top of a small shopping mall that tends to attract a more local crowd due to its location a bit further out.
Thermae Yu Shinjuku is a large onsen in Shinjuku that I’m told attracts a younger and also gayer crowd (it’s Shinjuku after all!)
Day trips
Hakone
Hakone is an onsen town in the countryside about an hour away from Tokyo. You can take the Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo to Odawara and then get a local train to Hakone.
Hakone Yuryo Onsen is a beauitful little onsen nestled in the mountains. Highly recommend. (They also have a small restaurant so you don’t have to leave to it, it’s very cute but can get busy so book ahead.)
Gay stuff
Japan can be quite kinky but unfortunately it’s much less accessible if you don’t speak Japanese, and some gay sauans etc even restrict access to non-Japanese speakers. The bar/clubbing scene is pretty mid; it is centred around Shinjuku Nichome (2-chome). Expect Soho-style gay bars that are kinda tacky. They’re all within walking distance of each other and you can bop from one to the other very easily.
7/11 Shinjuku Nichome Shinjuku-dori
Easier pre-drinking place. You can buy beer, soju and other alcohol inside and then drink it on the pavement/around the corner on the quiet street. It’s literally round the corner from Dragon Men.
King Tokyo
This is generally where people pre-drink before going to the clubs round the corner. Queen Tokyo is a lesbian bar just opposite.
Dragon Men club (Shinjuku)
This is the gay bar I usually go to. It’s relatively small. They have some (not necessarily amazing…) gogo dancers every hour or so. Cover is cash only and gets you a free first drink.
Honestly, the gay bars in Shinjuku are all kinda samey and within about a minute of each other so you can try multiple. Others include:
- Eagle Toyko Blue (Shinjuku)
- Kingdom Tokyo (Shinjuku)
Other recommendations I’ve had but have not checked out are:
Arty Farty – behind Dragon Men
Aisotope – I’m told has more themed nights and potentially cruising?
Gay saunas
The Japanese can be very kinky and Tokyo has a lot of gay sex clubs and saunas. A lot of them have strict rules; for example, many have age restrictions or require short hair etc, so check before you go
Placement of your locker key often indicates what position you are:
- Left wrist = bottom
- Right wrist = top
- Ankle = vers
In Japan, consent is implied in these spaces so if someone approaches you that you’re not into simply tell them no thank you and/or remove their hands from your body and they should get the message.
Many gay saunas also have sleeping areas on the upper floors. Japanese men will pretend to be asleep in these waiting for someone to approach them and touch them. If they are interested they will respond. If they are not interested they will turn away and yawn or pretend to be asleep. As a Westerner it’s very disconcerting and I haven’t quite got the hang of it…..But also, some people genuinely just sleep in these spaces, especially if it’s very late at night and they can’t get home!
24 Kaikan Shinjuku
There are multiple locations of 24 Kaikan, each with its own vibe. Ueno is bearier whilst Shinjuku is a younger more atheltic crowd and the most popular with foreigners. It is a few minutes walk from Dragon Men and the other gay bars. I think it’s cash only. There’s a ‘wet floor’ with sit down showers, hot tub etc as well as dry saunas. The steam room was incredibly steamy when I went and I literally couldn’t see a thing, which I didn’t like. Upstairs floors are composed mostly of beds. Bring a 100Y coin for the locker.
Bodybreath
Another gay “sauna” in Shinjuku although this is more of a cruise bar really. Very small basement location with changing area, small shower area and then the rest is a sort of cruising maze with some private areas. I didn’t have much luck here, it seems very sticky rice.
Volcana Sauna
Haven’t been, Reddit seems to think they no longer welcome non-Japanese speakers.
Wanker’s Union
Haven’t been, but don’t allow full sex.
Shibuya Meat
Another one I haven’t been to.
Boiler Room Shinjuku (no, not THAT Boiler Room haha)
More of a cruise bar I think